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| Page 2 of 2 |
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| Face Stamp: |
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| This is where the extra canvas is used. I stamped one face on the right (paintable) side of a square of tacky-backed canvas, and cut a second square the same size.
Using the stamped face as a template, I cut two face shapes, aligning the canvas squares back to back this time, with both paintable surfaces out. The stamped image goes on the paintable side and must be visible for the cutting. (The other canvas face shape is blank.)
The face stamp was stamped onto a separate square and used as a template to cut the back of the head as the reverse of the front, so the two would fit together (Figure 1). However, the stamp face cannot be reversed, so it has to be stamped on the blank, and then modified to fit (Figure 2).
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Figure 1
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Figure 2
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| Surface Design: |
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| To keep the color and design consistent while I painted, I laid out the pieces side by side as they would assembled into the doll. I just left the pattern pieces tacked to the canvas for added stability in the doll. After the doll is fully assembled, uneven patches get trimmed away.
After the faces were finished (Figure 3), and matching skin tones were on the legs and arms for the back and front views, I used the embellishment stamps on the dress parts, and then painted them. (Figure 4).
I painted the background outside the designs first, and used loose, rapid strokes overall. This doll is not serious art, so she does not warrant a complex paint job. Knowing when to stop is an art in itself.
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Figure 3
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Figure 4
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| Wiring and Batting: |
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| When the paint was dry, I flipped the pieces with Xyron adhesive on them. I attached the sleeves, arms, and hands with hot glu first. Then I stuck fiber to the pieces that were to be stuffed, and hot glued wires where they should be. |
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Figure 5
Arranged on Xyron adhesive-coated side of the canvas: batting first (gray), then wire (red). No batting in leg, foot, forearm, or hand. No batting or wire in cumberbund.
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| Assembly |
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| Assembling the doll with hot glue was the hard, messy part. I assembled piece by piece, running a bead of glue around three edges of one side, and pressing the sides together. The open side got slipped over another part, reminding me of Russian nested eggs. I let the glue run out to seal the edges, then trimmed the rough spots and glue globs. Paint covered most of the trimmed area. |
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Figure 6
1. Glue the left and right legs together. Then glue them to the batted side of the skirt, making sure left is left and right is right. Then glue the top skirt layer to the batted skirt layer.
2. Glue the top torso to the batted torso.
3. Glue the right top sleeve layer to its batted counterpart, leaving the flat side unglued. Then put glue on the appropriate shoulder and slip the shoulder into the sleeve opening (see the diagram *). Attach the othersleeve the same way.
4. and 5. Attach the skirt section to the torso section with the cumberbund. The cumberbunds edges should align with the skirt edges, back and front.
6. Attach a stamped face to the torso head with a glob of glue. Flip the doll and attached the other stamped face.
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| And so the doll is complete. I envision her on a dorm room door, covered with messages. |
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-Turn Page-
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