Tips for Embossing On Sheer Heaven
Sheer Heaven will not warp unless the heat is excessive, and there are a couple of things you can do to make sure it doesn’t get too hot.

First, hold the heat tool at least 4.5 to 5 inches away from the surface of the paper at all times. The powder will take longer to melt, but the Sheer Heaven will not warp.

The second step is to lay the Sheer Heaven flat on a ceramic tile while embossing. The tile helps to balance the temperature of the back and the front and minimizes the chance of warping. It also keeps you from heating a bend in the paper where you are holding it, and from burning your fingers. A little curving of the surface is to be expected with the tension of a thick layer of EP on just one side. It can be remedied by taping the artwork to the tile during its final cooling.
Embossing the Color
1. Warm the colored half of your design with the heat tool. You will see the pigment become shiny. Quickly sprinkle with clear EP and heat until melted. (Figure 4)

2. While the powder is still hot, apply another layer of EP, reheat, and so on. We applied 8-10 layers until we had a thick, glassy appearance.

3. When you are happy with the first half, repeat the procedure on the other half of your design. Some powder will get into the already-done territory, but it won’t affect the look as long as you get all the powder melted.
Figure 4. We use an “embossing bowl” because it is quicker and easier. If you are on your toes, you will catch that this picture was taken when we were trying to do a whole design at once. We blew it, and came up with the suggestion to work half and half.
Figure 5. This how your first half will look after 8 or 9 layers.
 Figure 6. Sponge clear embossing ink onto the areas without color, sprinkle with clear EP and heat. You only need one layer this time.

Pebbled Clear Glass Embossing
Now, it is time to apply the bubbled clear glass effect to the areas with no pigment. Find a part of your sea sponge where the surface has little “fingers” sticking up, giving it texture. Tap that part on your embossing pad and then over the surface of the unpainted sections of your design. (Figure 6) The ink coverage should not be solid, but should be like a “sponged” effect on a painted surface. It does not matter if a little gets on the already embossed areas - it will melt into the smooth EP. Because embossing ink stays wet a long time, you can do the whole design at once. Sprinkle with EP and heat until melted.
Figure 7. This is how the piece should look when finished. It is taped to the tile while cooling to flatten the curl that comes from surface tension on the embossed side.
Figure 8 (left). Here is the finished piece matted in black. We later decided on green instead and made the luminaria to match,

Another option would be to attach another mat to the reverse side, punch eyelet holes at the top, add chain or fancy fibers, and hang in a window as a suncatcher.
Turn the Page